Two bikeE's to go! (bikeE seat back mod & rack install)
When I recently bought two new bikeE CT's to use for our vacation trip this summer, the first thing I
noticed
was the seat back seemed to be too close to the seat bottom; I kept sliding towards the front edge of
the seat.
The "Comfort Seat" really wasn't that comfortable. To fix it, I decided to separate the two seat parts,
to allow about
an inch between them. With my first attempt, the seat back would slide further towards the back of the
bike, any time I
put much pressure on it. I added a small "link plate" to lock the seat back to the seat base, & Voila!
problem solved, seat feels much better!
If you would like to modify your bikeE comfort seat, you will need some parts. The only "unusual" parts
are the seat sliders; you will need two of them. Everything else can be bought at your local hardware
store.
This link to Easy Street
Recumbents
will get you to a source for the seat sliders, for $2.50 each. They still have a few left,
but I wouldn't wait too long... They are also a great resource for other bikeE parts. I have also recently
seen
the sliders at this link,
Why Tool e, another
interesting source for BikeE accessories.
Be sure to check the rear rack installation pictures at the end of this page!
Parts List
- seat sliders, 2 each @ $2.50
- sheet brass, 1 inch x 12 inches x .032 @ $1.39 (enough for 2 bikeE seats). Alternate: stainless steel
(stronger, but harder to work with)
The main function of the metal strip is to keep all the parts together & to hold the sliders in place,
for easy alignment; strength is not important as there is no tension on the brass when everything is assembled.
- threaded rod, 10/24 x 12 inches (provides enough for 2 bikeE seats) or a 10/24 bolt, 4 1/2" long
- nylock nuts, 10/24, 2 each @ $.05
- nut, 10/24, 1 each @ $.05 (used to "lock down" the loosest nylock, when it's screwd on about 3/8" past the end of the bolt)
- fender washer 10/24, 2 each @ $.05
- "mending plate" 2 inches x 1/2 inch, hole at each end, 2 each @ $.39 (use longer ones if you want
more space between the seat & the back)
- Total cost, under $8
Equipment
- Electric drill, bits
- Phillips screwdriver
- Vise (or you can try grip-loc pliers)
- round file
Quick Sketch - Brass (or stainless steel) Bracket
Check the width measurement with YOUR seat back!
The bracket has to fit inside the bottom channel on the seat back.
You may have to round out the hole a little if the phillip screw holding the seat slider
in place doesn't seat far enough in to allow the brass bracket to fit into the seat back bottom channel.
The top holes in the brass bracket have to line up with the holes in the bottom channel of the
seat back, so that the quick release bolt can fit through the entire assembly.
Installation
- Install a seat slider inside each short leg of the brass bracket, using the lower hole and the screw
provided.
- Remove the 2 quick release bolts from the seat base.
- Install the 4 1/2" bolt (or a 4 1/2" piece of the threaded rod if you can't find that long a bolt, or
just use a quick release bolt if you have an extra one) into the front seat base hole.
- Tighten the bolt, with fender washers & lock nuts.
- Install one of the quick release bolts, with a mending plate on each side, into the rear seat base
hole - don't tighten yet.
- Put the second quick release through the seat back holes & brass bracket assembly - don't tighten yet
- Align the seat back, with the brass bracket in place, just behind the seat base.
- You can probably "pop" the seat back bracket onto the bikeE frame. Just hook one side over the
frame & pull the top of the seat back
until it pops in place. If it's too tight, slide the seat back & bracket assembly onto the frame from
the rear before putting the quick release bolt through the mending plate, seat back hole, bracket & other
mending plate (use the quick release bolt to keep the bracket aligned in the seat back, while you slide
it in place).
- Remove the quick release bolt, aligning the holes in the mending plates with the seat back holes and
re-insert the bolt, this time through the mending plate, seat back hole, bracket, other seat back hole &
other mending plate.
- Tighten the two quick release bolts.
Enjoy your new, "really comfortable" comfort seat.
Rear Rack Installation
Here's another change I made, using a $15 rack from "Target". This rack works well
because of its flat mounting plate at the front. I used two 6"x3/4" mending plates for
the rack bottom and a bikeE accessory adapter for the top (you could also just use
the existing hole in the bikeE frame to bolt the rack in place at the top). I've used
it to carry 2 full sacks of groceries in panniers (over 30 pounds) with no problems.
Here's a close-up. If you carry a lot of weight, you may want to add a diagonal brace
attached to the plate and the rack leg, instead of the pedal reflectors. Be sure that you
use lock washers & "loc-tite" on all the bolts and check for tightness frequently.
Note that this mounting method DOES place most of the weight pretty far back...
If you have time, check this link to my
home built recumbent tandem, "Silk Road"
Disclaimer - I did these mods to my bikeE, they work for me,
you get to choose what you do with your bikeE.
Questions? Comments? e-mail me at: TLC